The Jeans That I’d Buy Again and Again
A former denim editor/addict starts with a clean slate. Plus, an homage to Amo, Pistola, Moussy and more.
Remember premium denim? I do. I moved from New York to LA in 2004 specifically to cover “denim” as it’s just referred to now (and some other markets no one else wanted to cover) for WWD and if I remember correctly 3 to 5 new denim brands popped up every single day. You get a denim brand! And YOU get a denim brand! The amount of jeans swirling around out there was rivaled only by the amount of fleur de lys embellished sweatsuits and (also “premium”) t-shirts that confusingly came in mostly shades of brown, cream and yellow. First there was Earl Jeans (RIP), then Paper, Denim, Cloth (Also, RIP), then 7 For All Mankind, Citizens of Humanity etc etc etc… You get it. You wore it. You’re still wearing it, but we arguably ALL look much, much chicer than the early aughts (our butt cracks aren’t exposed for starters) and I am so proud of us.
Since then, I have amassed a considerable collection of jeans. I am not by any stretch a serious collector or aficionado or true expert. I’ve just tried an actual ton of brands and styles, plus interviewed and written about a lot of brands, why they started and what their business and brand is all about. Let’s just say I spent a lot of time in Vernon, CA at one point sitting in wash houses and dye facilities. A lot of pairs that were sent to me over the years are what I’d honestly consider novelty. I remember a brand that was totally based on the Golden Rule and that’s how they designed every pair. And another that used 24K gold thread to stitch the back pockets. How about a flap pocket with contrast whip stitching a la Hudson or True Religion? (I know the latter is back). Robin’s Jeans anyone? K, let’s not spend this time together taking a walk down Robertson Blvd circa 2006.
While the novelty styles have come and gone, there are brands that have endured and remained a part of my core collection. AG (RIP) made a baby boot cut that were my absolute go-to for the better part of a decade. Madewell really ruled my world (along with Loeffler Randall ankle boots) from about 2012-2015. At one point pre-pandemic, I probably owned over 50 pairs of jeans. Jeans are still the thing I buy most and mostly from The Real Real, eBay or directly from Levis, Moussy, Amo, Pistola or Alex Mill.
Let’s get into these brands because that 50 pairs has since dwindled to 10 or 15 and it’s these brands that comprise the bulk of the revised stacks.
Moussy, along with Chimala are the brands that keep me trolling The Real Real and eBay mainly because they are pricey and in the case of Chimala, very pricey and hard to find. More recently though, Madewell has been stocking one off pairs of Chimala under the “Labels We Love” portion of their site, but alas, they all seem to be sold out. Both Moussy and Chimala offer a rigid denim with styles that are structured but still feminine. Shopbop has a pretty great selection of Moussy jeans, but they’re also having a Winter Sale on their site at the moment. A very good time to try for yourself. I find I need to size up in Moussy because the styles I wear have no stretch.
I’ve been an Amo fan since they launched in 2015. The sizing is super inclusive but I found that the cuts are really great for a petite frame and the under 5’6” crowd featuring yours truly. They had this twist hem jean that became my entire personality from 2015-2018, but they’ve since discontinued it, just like I have my personality from 2015-2018. They still have the Lover Boy that has been a core style of the brand and I think still very much hits as a classic. I love the wide leg versions they’ve released lately. Perfect slouch, great washes and honestly such a good weight - not too heavy and rigid, but not flimsy and stretchy in any way. These are jeans to travel in, wear at night, wear on errands, wear just to wear.
Pistola is my favorite find as of late. Yes, I am late to the Pistola party. I met founder Grace Na a couple of months ago and was like, “where have you been all my life?” They ride the trends (barrels and such) but not in an egregious way. Case in point: The Lexi straight bowed leg has barely left my body since I got them in November. The charcoal/black wash is perfection and the bow of the barrel leg is so subtle, I don’t look or feel like another fleeting denim trend aka like two garbage cans are circling my knees. Last night, I bought the Ryder cuffed wide leg because I haven’t stopped thinking about them since I spotted them on a friend a few weeks ago. Also, Pistola jeans are mostly all under $200 which is SO civilized. While I LOVE Nili Lotan and Khaite jeans for the cool factor and the fact that they really are good jeans, I almost always choke on the north of $400 price tag. Ok, Chimalas are also north of 4 but I promise they are life changers and the scarcity (and that perfect slouch) makes me want them more.
Next on my denim to-do list is to visit With Love, Lenny in Sherman Oaks, CA. They customize vintage Levis down to the millimeter to best suit your style and tush. Perhaps I will make an appointment today and head over there to document the process and put it in a future newsletter?
Honorable mention for sure is the denim at Alex Mill. I LOVE what designer Somsack Sikhounmuong is doing over there. He was previously designing Madewell, so if you love Madewell (and J Crew for that matter) you’ll love Alex Mill. Retail guru Mickey Drexler is also heading it up, so it’s kind of a dream team/dream denim scenario. My favorite style is this Alek relaxed wide leg. I will say it’s the kind of style that makes me wish I was a few inches taller to get the full subtle flare effect, but I think they still really work, especially in the Seattle Black wash.
Great jeans for all occasions! Love your jeans choices! 😍😍
Love this! I’ve been hanging onto my pair of Paper Denim Cloth jeans for years because the denim is so soft, but would never wear them since the rise is 😳 I’m an adamant ultra high rise only wearer today after living through that era.